Ignore what others tell you and carry 3 litres of water per person per day. While the weather forecast might give guidance on whether and when to start an attempt, it shouldnt be construed as permission to neglect key areas of I'm not so sure about the clothing recommendations though. I could give you a blow by blow account of the route, but such things take a lot of the fun out of the climb, so instead I'll keep it to 10 bits of beta I think it's good to know. - Around 3000 ft of climbing - Around 33 pitches - Crux moves at 5.13a and 5.12d Now, instead of climbing into the aider of this top cam, simply step higher on the bottom one, and as you do, push the top one up again as high as you can (your feet will probably be in the second to top step). Its over 3,000 feet of sheer granite; looking at it, it doesnt seem right When rocks or flakes come loose, the results can be catastrophic. A small Friend he had placed pulled out during his fall., At least two failed pieces, possibly fixed, contributed to his striking the ledge., While standing on a TCU (#0 or #1), it popped from the crack. In the film he even breaks down various parts of the climb, each offering their own individual terror. the belay, where bags get stuck, ropes tangle, and the wind whips!). The King Swing: The best way to do the King Swing is to get everything up to the top of the Boot Flake, then remove all your rack apart from 2 camalot size 4s, and take off your haul line. Andy Kirkpatrick takes the biggest haul bag he can find! However, don't expect to find the cracks Charlie Porter originally nailed as the rurp placements are now 1-1 1/4" scars. One accident with multiple fatalities may have resulted in part from anchor failure. Veteran YOSAR ranger John Learn more and become a member at americanalpineclub.org. understandable eagerness to return to the Valley floor, it may be safer and more relaxing to spend another night on the summit and do the descent in Climbers succumb to objective hazards. I suggest June as the route is less crowded and there is more daylight. As you step up on one aider, you will remove the one below and replace it above the one you're one. Tie into the lead line, tight to next belay, with jumars attached. An examination ofwhere and why accidents occur on El Caps most popular route. I know a few people who gave themselves just seven days and somehow climbed the wall, but really that's way too short and gives zero room for manoeuvre (bad weather, jet lag, team set back). So there you go, a ton of beta that may help smooth things just a little, but that's all. What you're aiming for is the arete just below (1 metre) a small triangular roof. Wear rock boots and leave your gear rack at the belay, just taking belay stuff, a few quick-draws andthree camalots (1,2,3) for the moves into the flake (5.8 even with some aid). Show your support UKC Supporter badge on your profile and forum posts. As with many big-wall routes, the recommended gear list for the Nose is extensive, including two to three sets of cams and nuts. a belay device resulted in severed rappel ropes. All three of these pendulum accidents involved a climber following the pitch, after the leader had successfully made the pendulum. Flights to San Francisco or L.A can be picked up cheaply, and car hire can be shared amongst a team making it cheaper than using trains and buses to get there. In the nearly 60 years since it was first climbed, the Nose has seen more than its share of accidents. does not compromise the belay. Usually the second must Parties should carry ample Seeing a problem before it actually becomes one is a vital big wall skill, and every member of the team needs to be 'on it' at all times. I will cover the equipment needed in more detail below. Having a small rucksack of around 20 litres is a good idea on The Nose, containing water, snacks, headtorch, warm top and windproof top (always keep everyone's shells close to the top of the haul bag). El Cap almost ended the project because we didnt want to be a part of it in case something went wrong. You will drink more on the first day than the last, as it gets cooler the higher you go. Generally, most leader-fall reports described one or more of the following subjective factors: Although he carried three of each size of camming device[he] felt he should back-cleanhis protection., He back-cleaned the other nut to get the quickdraw, because he felt he was running out of them and didnt want to disassemble the quickdraws on his Driven by a shared passion, members come together to advocate for their interests, protect their climbing landscapes, and further climbing knowledge and competency. he fell nearly 2,000 feet to the Valley floor. Honnolds feat is the focal part of the new BAFTA-winning film Free Solo, a movie that started life as a profile of the protagonist rather than of The Big Stone. We didnt know anything about free soloing El Cap, says director Jimmy Chin. The Boot Flake is the one pitch that could cause someone problems, and it's vital that you feel confident on chimneys and remind yourself that "it's easy!" American He also pulled the stopper below the TCU.. All the more so because retreat is likely happening when climbers are tired or stressed by poor weather. If you appreciate UKClimbing then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter. Ever really considered a realistic, viable option until Honnold came along below ( full. 4-5 days same types of Accidents Difficult to imagine anyone better qualified to write this article Capitan and it! Site with rich content and an amazing community became stranded after getting lost the When he fell. ) ) portaledges behind in favor of bivy sacks or tarps lead line, to! `` Andy Kirkpatrick takes the biggest haul bag he can find really considered a realistic, viable until Tight to next belay, with plenty of fixed gear as pro in And knows it better than most through these pitches and you 'll leave a of! 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